Saturday, February 26, 2011

A (Fake) Disaster

A (Fake) Disaster Strikes

On Wednesday another volunteer, Amy, an ER doctor, worked with the District Medical Officer to put together a mass casualty event. Health workers from the local hospital and clinic joined district staff and treated the “victims” (WellShare staff and volunteers, along with some of the medical participants) of an earthquake. There is an active volcano in the area and earthquakes do occur.

We had broken necks, ribs and limbs, concussions, sucking chest wounds, abdominal lacerations with spilling guts, anxiety reactions, injured babies and pregnant women. Everyone was made up appropriately and we were told how to respond when touched. It was quite a production. The medical people seemed to really get into it, which they should have since so many of us were screaming. There was a discussion afterwards about what was handled well and what needed improvement. Jolene gave out wonderful medical books that had been shipped by Books for Africa and people clearly valued them. Lunch was served. Amy is planning on leaving them with other scenarios so they can do more of these in the future.

An Educational Village Visit

On Friday, we were part of a wonderful event at Bassodawish. This is the local village that our friends Welcome Jerde and Dan Berg have adopted along with the 14 people who traveled with them last year to safari and do a service project in Bassodawish. When they left they asked the village what they could do to help. They were told, among other things, primary school uniforms and secondary school books. Since Welcome will not be back until next year, and the leaders of Bassodawish know we are friends, they invited us to be Mama Welcome’s representatives at a ceremony to distribute uniforms and books.

We were very honored to be there and know how much Welcome and Dan would have liked to accept these thanks in person. Bassodawish invited the ward chancellor and the district education officer so this was a very big deal. Since the officials were late, the primary and secondary children took turns singing songs for us. When everyone was present there were introductions and speeches. We told them we were honored to be there and that Mama Welcome and her Minnesota fiends said hello. (Mama Welcome na marafiki wanasema Hamjambo.) We told them we were so happy to see the children in their new uniforms and hoped they would take good care of them, but more importantly, that they would study hard. The village chairman charged the students and parents to take good care of these uniforms because there would be no more. For the books, we urged them to make good use of them and become leaders in their village and country.

Then proclamations were read in very good English, even by the primary school student. They said that they now also have benefactors from Belgium who were going to provide them with lab equipment for their new science building. This village is really making strides! It shows the power of good leadership. Now, they would like to get electricity and a water catchment system.

They provided us with printed copies of these statements of thanks to take to Mama Welcome. (I keep wanting to say Mama Karibu since that is welcome in Swahili.) Finally, a secondary teacher thanked us again for all the benefactors have done in their village. He had tears in his eyes. It was all very moving.

Jolene also presented secondary books on English, science, math and social studies for their community library which had been sent by Books for Africa.

It was a great afternoon.

And Other Activities

We have continued to work on ideas for proposals other than USAID. We would like to find some potential funders when we return, but we know money is tight in the non-profit world.

Sunday we leave for Bariadi. This is a area on the other side of the Serengeti, so hopefully we will see wildlife along the way. Bariadi is an area that WellShare is exploring for a new project. We will try to do some village surveys as we did here last year. It is a much poorer area, but they have better roads so it will be easier to get around. The population is much denser also; there are 200 villages rather than 48 and they are closer together. It will be interesting to see this area just south of Lake Victoria where we have never been.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Building Partnerships

We’ve finished up a very busy week.

While out in the field two weeks ago meeting with the Hadzabe and Datoga group, we videoed our interview with two teachers. This week we finished up a presentation DVD to complement the concept paper we wrote for a visiting NGO.

And, just in time. They came for a visit on Tuesday and it was quite Tanzanian. Their arrival was about three hours late because of heavy rains that allowed the mud road to hold fast to the wheels. They had to abandon one vehicle. The other was pulled out by tractors. Eventually their transport company brought in another vehicle and we were all together.

We visited the village of one of the best Survive and Thrive Groups (STG), an innovative effort by WellShare. The women started their income project by learning from Jolene how to make banana bread, a tricky proposition over the equivalent of a charcoal camping stove. The visiting NGO had been there last June and was impressed. The women now have a tea shop and served us lunch, including banana bread.

The reason for this return visit was to show their board members what a self-sustaining program looks like. When we visited them in California last December, they told us how impressive the June visit had been. The NGO is used to groups saying “if you give us money we can do…. Our STG didn’t. They simply said “we are going to do…”

And so, the development of the STG’s business impressed them more. Questions were asked:
1. “What do you do with the profits?” “We purchase vegetables to sell and earn even more.”
2. “Where do you sell your bread?” “We’ve moved beyond the confines of the shop to visiting other locations in the village and market days.”
3. “Are you experiencing any problems?” Frankly, we were now holding our collective breaths. Would they now ask for financial help and burst the self-sustaining bubble? The answer was no. “We have had theft problems. So, because the village loves our bread so much, they are giving us a building by the village office, along with the fruit tree and vegetable garden to expand our business.”

This is one example of building self-sustaining programs in the district.

As for obtaining funding from the NGO, we won’t know for several months, but we have a wonderful relationship and it looks promising.

As for our Moringa tree project, we’ve had additional developments that are critical to our effort. Tanzania Agriculture Productivity Program (TAPP) surprised us with a visit. We weren’t expecting them for several weeks, but they seem eager to get going. Another potential partner, Tanzania Horticulture Association called and asked for another meeting. It is likely they would only be involved if the Moringa project grows enough to be commercially viable, a long term goal.

Today we had a meeting with a Canadian NGO we highly respect, CPAR. The discussion centered around Farmer Field Schools (FFS), their main program here. Some of you have been very generous by contributing financially to this effort, and we hope to have something settled soon. We’ll let you know.

Also today, the group finished brainstorming on a proposal for USAID. The current funding for WellShare in Tanzania will finish September 30th, and it is time to again ask for support.

This has been a fascinating week for us.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Education

Education

Education has lately been big news in Tanzania. Only 50% of students in Form 4 passed national exams, down from 72% the previous year. What does that mean to them? What does it mean for the future of Tanzania?

First a little background. The grade levels here is heavily influenced by the British system. Primary school is seven years (Standard 1 through 7). All subjects in public schools are taught in Swahili, except English. Swahili is often a kid’s second language, the primary one being her/his tribal language. Private schools we have visited teach in English at all levels.

The next step is Ordinary (O) level, or secondary school (Form 1 through 4). If a kid’s progress isn’t interrupted (illness, family not being able to afford the fees, etc.), then she/he would be about 17 years old when finishing Form 4. Starting in Form 1, all classes are taught in English (for most their third language), except the one class of Swahili.

At the end of Form 4 students take national exams. This determines whether they can go on with their education. If they pass, the student goes on to Advanced (A) level for two years (Form 5 and 6). “A” level is similar to our junior college system. If the student fails the Form 4 test, there is virtually no chance to continue their education. The Form 4 exam is a BIG deal, with the exam itself and the grading controversial.

For example, we’ve been told by teachers of technical classes (physics, chemistry, math) that sometimes the questions are unsolvable, such as having missing or wrong data. Teachers have said that the grading can also be a problem, with wrong answers used for grading. Sometimes “trick” English is used. Results on these national exams can defy logic. There were kids who passed chemistry but failed all their other subjects. Chemistry is hard, especially since the test is administered in English. Swahili should be much easier, yet they didn’t even get a D.

The day the test results came out, it was almost impossible for us to get onto the internet, since that is how students find out what their future education will be. We talked with Tanzanians who are outraged that so many failed. There is talk of remarking the exams. It is a terrible situation because parents often sacrifice a lot to keep their kids in school. Now they see that this may have been in vain.

The reasons for the problem are being argued here, and if we ask, everyone has an opinion. For example, we talked with a very successful Tanzanian who has remarkable English. He comes from a poor background, but early in life decided English would be critical to his future. It was his good fortune to meet people who passed on books so he could practice and learn. He studied hard, and his father sold land to allow his son to go on. Now our friend is helping his younger siblings through school.

Our conversations are with Tanzanians whose English is very good, and we haven’t talked with a broad cross section of the people, so our information may not be representative. Within that group there is a strong desire to start with English in pre-school.

This is in part because Tanzania is a member of the East African Union (Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi), a group trying to come together to build their economic strength. Kenya and Uganda’s language for business and government is English. Rwanda has moved away from French and is now teaching in English. Without good English education, Tanzania could suffer.

In addition, the transition from all classes in Swahili to all classes in English starting at about age 14 is very difficult. We’ve met students whose English is at best rudimentary. And, how can they learn chemistry, biology or physics, which have a challenging vocabulary to start with?

There are other issues that will seem familiar to Americans – how to attract and develop the best into teaching, especially in hard to reach rural areas; how can school be made more affordable to the poor; how can enough quality materials be made available? We’ve been in many schools covering all ages, both public and private. Books are hardly ever seen, and those we have looked at are poorly done. Teachers don’t have proper materials. They are scheduled for 7 periods a day. Their pay is such they often seek other income opportunities to supplement their teacher’s pay, diverting their time away from the classroom.

As in the United States, there will be debates about what the best direction for education should be in Tanzania. It seems obvious that the English controversy is by no means the only issue. What seems clear to us is that Tanzanians know that eliminating the possibility for further education for half the 17 year olds here is a problem that must be addressed.

Holiday

Today (Wednesday) is Eid al-Moulid, Mohammed’s birthday, a national holiday. The eastern part of the country is predominantly Muslim, while the further west you go Christianity becomes the majority religion, with native religions scattered throughout the country. We haven’t seen or heard any evidence of religious intolerance. Politically there are splits, including between Zanzibar and the mainland, but religion doesn’t seem to be a force in that divide.

There are more than 120 tribes in Tanzania, along with religious diversity, yet we find the people friendly and very accepting.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Making Progress

It’s hard to believe we have been here four weeks already. There are now many volunteers here: two physicians, a young woman from Canada who is teaching English to a group of HIV positive women, and a Minnesota nutritionist who has been volunteering with WellShare in Uganda. She is waiting out the election there because the possibility of violence is always present during times like that.

We spent time this week putting together a slide show on the moringa tree for presentation to people in the villages. This will be translated by staff into both Swahili and Iraqw, which is the largest tribe in this area.

Laying the groundwork
We wrote concept papers for both TAPP (TZ Agriculture Productivity Program) and TAHA (TZ Horticulture Association) outlining what we would like them to do. We also developed questions for Anna, the Hadzabe teacher that we videotaped on Sunday. This will be used to create a summary of the issues in the Hadzabe and Datoga tribes to present to possible funders. The NGO we met with twice in CA and who twice visited our program last year will be stopping again next week. They have been very impressed with what is happening here and hopefully will help fund income generating activities and education for WellShare.

Market day drama
On Friday, we went with the drama troop to market day in the village of Endobash. Each area here has market on a different day, always the same date of the month. In that way vendors can make the rounds of all the markets.

There have been some issues in this area with domestic violence, so Jolene asked the drama troop to put together a new skit about the problem. They started in the food area of the market with a dispute between a man, his wife and his girlfriend. As they argued with each other they moved through the market and attracted a huge crowd that was following and hollering comments. They led the crowd to the performance area where it finally became obvious to the crowd that his was a staged drama. A policeman recruited to participate finally “arrested” the man. The crowd was large, with audience participation about the issue. There was also a skit about a man with multiple wives and children, and the conflict this generated. The performances are interspersed with dance, drumming and singing, making the whole event entertaining as well as informative. Although most of the discussion was about the misbehavior of husbands/boyfriends, the men stayed around. It was a long and very successful performance

Hadzabe/Datoga meeting
Sunday was another amazing meeting with the Hadzabe (the last hunter-gatherers in East Africa) and Datoga (pastoralists). At the end of our trip last year we were able to witness a moving meeting. Both tribes previously denied they needed help when WellShare first started their project; now they are asking for help with health care and education. (Please see last year’s entry for information about these tribes.)

They formed the Datoga/Hadzabe Association (DAHA) through which they could organize and learn how to influence government to provide the services they need, save money and develop the resources to solve some of their problems. The Hadzabe don’t have a cash economy and in the past couldn’t financially contribute to the group. This year there is a new sign saying that tourists who visited these tribes, many to experience the lifestyle of the Hadzabe, needed to contribute $5 each to the village fund. This will provide cash for the association.

Last year we learned that the tribes got paid very little from the tourists, who were paying guides high fees to visit them. Some guides would ask the Hadzabe to provide “cultural” experiences, make drinks from their honey, or even to have their children run around naked, to look more “primitive”. Then, the guides would say the tourists didn’t have any money to pay! The organization has now decided to only work with guides that don’t exploit them.

It was clear at this meeting that these people have found their voices. The agenda involved electing representatives from each tribe to an executive council, with leadership training provided by WellShare. When the nominations began and a couple of Datoga men were recommended, the Hadzabe participant who clearly was viewed as a leader said no, they would not allow it because these men were liars! Talk about frank political dialogue! Next, they were to elect an adviser to be the accountant. A Datoga was selected, but the Hadzabe said they would not participate if they didn’t also have a representative. This was quite amazing since the Hadzabe tend to be a quiet people. It was wonderful to see democracy in action. We feel so lucky to be a part of these momentous events that will shape these tribes for years to come and hopefully ensure their survival.

Then Silvery from WellShare presented information about the moringa tree to the tribes. Many were familiar with it for medicines, but had no knowledge of its nutritional value or water clarification qualities. They are very eager to get training and seedlings.

After the meeting Jolene and Silvery asked each tribe about domestic violence; if it is okay to strike a child or wife, etc. It was very interesting how the different tribes dealt with a drunken, abusive husband and under what circumstances a woman had a right to leave or when it was okay to strike a child.

Once our meetings were finished it was time to buy their crafts - lots of jewelry, bows and arrows, and gourds. We were swarmed! This was obviously an important meeting, many of the Datoga women dressed in beautiful beaded leather dresses.

Making Connections
As we left, the leader of the group told me he was so grateful for our efforts to bring more resources to the area. I told him we could not guarantee results but we would do our best. And on Monday that process began! We met with Dorothy from TAPP, who already has a successful moringa project. We were delighted to find out that she was very interested in providing the training and supplies to get small holder farmers in our area involved with moringa and vegetable cultivation for their own nutrition and for export. In our proposal we suggested seven villages and two schools as a start. We are very hopeful that this can move quickly and take advantage of the coming rainy season. TAPP also does drip irrigation and water catchment systems, which would also be wonderful, especially for the schools.

We are now working on editing videotaped interviews as part of the presentation to our NGO visitors when they visit next week.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

New Connections

We have had another eventful week! We continued our work with Moringa trees; they are drought resistant, with very nutritious foliage and seeds. A road trip to Arusha, about two hours east of Karatu and the main city in the northern part of Tanzania, proved very worthwhile.

We met one Tanzanian who teaches farmers to grow the trees, then buys the leaves and seeds from them for processing and export. He makes cooking and massage oil from the seeds, ground leaf powder and ground seed powder as a nutritional additives and for natural healing. The seed cake that remains is sold for water purification and animal fodder. The organization has been recognized by the president of Tanzania. It is exciting to see someone who is not just exporting raw materials, which happens too often here, but is processing and then exporting. The country needs a lot more of this.

Next, we tried to find a woman who initiated a program of moringa growing for HIV women. The phone number we had wasn’t correct and we received no response to email. So we tried to track her down, which is always a challenge in a city where there are few street names and all directions are by landmarks (similar in some ways to Japan.) In the process we found the office for TAHA, Tanzanian Horticulture Association. They are like a farmer’s cooperative, a Tanzanian organization partially funded by USAID. Part of their focus is training small farmers on agricultural methods, how to work together, and finding ways to market what the farmers grow. TAHA members also include medium and large farmers along with suppliers.

They expressed real interest in coming out to work with the groups in our neediest area, and we are meeting again next week to better define how we can work together. This training might be free; we also need a long-term commitment so that the program builds local self-sustaining operations. So this was our second exciting meeting.

From TAHA we found out where the organization we were originally looking for is located. However, the woman we wanted to meet with had just had surgery, which may have explained why she didn’t answer her personal phone either. We are meeting with her next week; the organization already has a robust Moringa project and could be an even better fit for our goals. Up to now we have identified five potential partners for this project, organizations with the expertise and resources we need. Hopefully next week we can firm up which organization(s) will be the best fit.

On the Road

We had a little adventure on our way home - a flat tire. This was a bit ironic because we were on the only paved road in our area, a beautiful stretch of highway installed by the Japanese government a few years ago. All the other roads are dirt; most eroded from rain. Fortunately, a tour driver stopped to help as Rick was struggling with the jack, which didn’t have enough lift to replace the tire. Then a lorry stopped. The driver was from Bassodawish and recognized our car. Because of WellShare’s excellent reputation in his village he wanted to help. He had a huge jack and made it easy work.

On the same road we passed a bus flipped on its side on the curvy road coming out of the Rift Valley. Although there are new speed bumps every year, people still drive too fast and recklessly. While we were changing the tire (on the traffic side of the road, of course!) the tour driver would warn everyone to get well back whenever a lorry or large bus came by. He clearly didn’t trust those drivers!

Weather

For several days the dust was tremendous. It is always hot in Arusha (the closest city to Karatu), but the dust was particularly bad this trip. As we drove back through the Rift Valley we could see clouds of it moving against the distant mountains. Where does all the top soil land?

The TAHA people have decided that the short rainy season in Nov.-Dec. is history. The past two years there have been about two weeks of rain in Jan. and then nothing until March. There has been no short rainy season in 8 of the last 9 years, so it makes sense to assume that this climate change is permanent. This brings to mind additional benefits of the moringa trees; they are drought resistant and of course they could help prevent soil erosion.